I bought this Wiggers 33 last spring and am finally getting around to adding an anchor windlass. I have chosen a Lewmar Pro series 1000 horizontal windlass. The mast is currently out, so this should be relatively straight forward. However, I have never been on a sailboat with a windlass, so I have a few questions.
The chain should lead straight aft to the gypsy, but the chain should not angle down more than 6 degrees to the gypsy. The roller mounted on the pulpit is several inches high- I can see the chain heading aft, sloping down, parallel to the deck, so I may need to raise the windlass?
It seems that a conventional anchor lock would be mounted below the chain so that one would have to push down on the chain to lock it. I have always used a line to secure the anchor. Does anyone have a preference?
The windlass comes with a dual direction solenoid and a rocker switch. Do most people mount the switch on the foredeck? I can see where a switch mounted in the cockpit might be convenient when single handing, but presently my partner is generally up at the bow directing the boat/hauling up the anchor. In the future I will also be installing a wash down pump to clean the chain and line, since the anchor locker drains to the bilge- real shortcoming! So there will be someone forward anyway.
Any thoughts?
Nick Burnett
Sugar Blues N33 Wiggers 02
Centerboard Yacht Club
Portland, ME
On Friday, February 16, 2024 at 7:31:27 PM UTC-5 Steve on Caper somewhere wrote:
Hi Nicholas, we have Up/Down foot switches on the foredeck and a wireless remote control for all other situations… and yes we did install an oak base to raise the windlass on our NS30U.
Ron
Ron & Diane Schryver
“Alpha Waves” 1987 NS30U #393
Georgian Bay Midland ON
Thanks for the photo of your table mount. I think I will order one that goes down to 14", so that it can add a cushion to make a double berth of my c-shape dining setup. It will also raise to 30" for dining. The table fits inside the C, as it was meant, I guess, as a cocktail table.
Rob,
Thanks for your input on the windlass height. I think, after crawling around under my winter shrink wrap, that is will also need an inch or two of teak under the windlass.
Hoping for a warm spring to fair the hull and add three layers of barrier coat to the hull after stripping down to a bare hull.
Hi Nick,
( HERE ) is a photo of the pedestal my table / convertible berth is mounted on. ( HERE ) is the manufacturer.
I suspect the bracket that holds the table top to the pedestal is fairly generic. Maybe you fabricate a table top and purchase a bracket to have the option to swap between the two ?
I can send a photo of the table side of the bracket if it will help. Other cabin versions of the 33 have a fold out table, mine is sized to accommodate the only the C-shaped settee.
Rob Cohen
s/v SOAVE
NS33 #009
Cedar Point YC
Westport, CT
I think most windlass installations need some blocking to get the chain lead above the anchor roller. Unless it’s positioned above the roller the chain will not fully engage. Something like teak or purple heart works well. Depending on the manufacturer and the height you require you may need to get longer bolts/threaded rods. Make sure that they are 316 stainless not 304
Thanks for your ideas and your information about the equipment you used. Looks like a good setup.
I think we knew each other! I was, until a year ago, based in St. Peter’s for several years with my previous boat, the Madi B, a Sabre 30. You even helped out with pieces to repair my furler, if I have the right Niagara 35 owner.